"Roaring Twenties", which were the crucial period in the history of fashion, have been left behind. Fashion 30's began during the "Great Depression." In the fall of 1929, the Wall Street banking crisis erupted, which became the beginning of the global economic crisis. Ravaged by joint-stock companies and banks, depreciated money, many businesses closed down, the company faced a wave of unemployment.
In 1933, in Germany came to power the party of the National Socialists, led by Adolf Hitler, promotes the prospects for the revival of the great German Empire. "The Great Depression" was a "prelude" to the Second World War.
During this period originated alarming fashion 30's , more practical and discreet, unlike fashion carefree "Golden Twenties". Ostentation "era" fleppers "has given way to a new elegance. Women's ideal gradually lost through power lines spurting region, young, cheerful worldview, which were peculiar to the previous period. Women's fashion is focused on more mature feminine image.
Not all the houses of high fashion could adapt to the new times and offer a style that would be in demand in the conditions of the "Great Depression ."
The crisis put an end to the lives of many Russian homes embroidery and fashion houses who settled in the West after the Russian Revolution. Were forced to shut down such famous fashion houses as "Paul Poiret," "John Redfern," "Drekoll", instead there are "Maggie Ruff", "Jacques Doucet" in the mid 30's ended their existence "Madame Sheryui", "Sisters Callot. "
At the same time, the thirties were an important and fruitful period for the development of fashion design - new ideas and concepts in modeling.
Despite the global crisis, we opened a new fashion house: in 1930 "Meynboher" based American Main Rousseau Bocher and became famous for its VIP client - the American Wallis Simpson - (Duchess of Windsor), in 1932, opened a fashion house "Nina Ricci" in 1933 - "Robert Piguet" in 1934, "Alix Barton" in 1935 - "Elsa Schiaparelli", in 1936 was opened fashion House "Catherine Parel", the creator of which was an immigrant from Russia Thea (Catherine) Bobrikov, famous fashion model houses "Lanvin" its institution existed until 1948, and in 1937 opened "Jacques Fath" fashion house "Jean Desse", "Cristobal Balenciaga."
Continue their work at home fashion "Lanvin", "Chanel", "Ogyustabernar", "Marcel Roche", "Molina", "Jacques Heim", "Lucien Lelong", began to produce the first collection of ready-made garments in this period.
It was at this time was the rise of mass quality readymade garments, complicating its cut. In the US, where the mass fashion shaped Hollywood, appeared firm, traded via mail order catalogs, they spread popular models in millions of copies.
A symbol of fashion crisis era began long skirts that came down sharply right after the crash on the New York Stock Exchange. The first long skirts and dresses with waist line in the right place in 1929 began to offer Jean Patou, and then all the fashion houses have started extending their models, first to mid-calf, and then, almost to the ankles. Fashionable ladies lengthened old skirts and dresses, wedges When sewing them and frills.
Simplicity, convenience and rationality of clothing were the qualities that were needed mass fashion crisis years. As in times of war during the depression, many women have to shoulder the load of new problems. This, of course, changed the fashionable image - instead of relaxed woman "Golden Twenties" appeared to-day activities, strengths and, at the same time, very feminine the fair sex, surviving in a difficult era.
In the early 30's a very common model wore dark dresses with white collars. Another sign of fashion that had started already in the 30-ies - the broad shoulders in women's clothing. Shoulders visually expands scarves, assembly and wings on the sleeves, since 1934 at the expense of wider cut themselves became shoulders, and in 1936 there were shoulder pads.
In 1932, the US saw the release of "Letty Lynton" with Joan Crawford in the title role. Movie star appeared in costumes created by legendary costume "Maitre-Goldwyn-Mayer" studio Adrian, which, to emphasize the features of actress figures, invented for her dress with extended skirts, balances the lush layered ruffles on the sleeves, which greatly expanded visual shoulders. Dresses Joan Crawford became so popular that a copy of one of them advertised in the shopping catalog "Sears Roebuck" sold half a million copies.
Such a thing as a single ensemble in the women's costume in the current economic situation has been gradually fade out of life, to dress in this way was too extravagant for fashion crisis era. In 1930 the ensemble was created not by the color of unity of all elements of the costume, and thanks to the accessories: a hat, handbag, gloves and shoes, which were to be the same color. Strictly chosen accessories are usually black or brown, and in the summer - white, can be worn with any dress or suit. The role of accessories in fashion 30's was huge, because for most women of that time a new hat or bag were the only available means to follow the fashion and make a novelty in their way.
Very popular in the 30s all kinds of hats - as tiny, and a wide-brimmed, fur boas from fox or fox, fur collars, neck ribbons, gloves with large bells, bags, envelopes. Since the real jewels in the period of the economic crisis were not enough, someone is available, in a fashion spread inexpensive jewelry.
Men's fashion , at that time, became more conservative. Still it remained legislator Prince of Wales - Edward VIII, abdicated in favor of his brother George VI, and took the title of Duke of Windsor. He introduced a new "careless" mode, or "tired" elegance. Returned coats, reminiscent of the beginning of the century. In Hollywood, coats entered the fashion thanks to Fred Astaire, is considered one of the most elegant movie stars of the time. Tanned Superman with athletic figure, by Hollywood standards, it was the ideal man. This ideal is perfectly embodied on the screen the famous actors of the time Cary Grant, Clark Gable, Gary Cooper. In popular fashion is very popular standard suits with fitted jackets and broad shoulders, which relied pants with cuffs.
Hollywood in general has had a huge impact on the fashion 30's . During the severe economic crisis of the movie almost became the only available entertainment for many people. Sitting in front of TV and surviving, eventful life heroes, many distracted and forget about their own problems.
In the early 30's with the advent of sound and color has become a real Hollywood "dream factory." What he saw on screens of millions of viewers around the world, becoming a role model: Model dresses, hairstyles, beauty ideals.
The beauty of Hollywood stars was invented, carefully constructed. Contribution to the "unearthly images" was added make-up artists, costume designers, lighting operators. But this "creation", the unreality only increased the attractiveness of screen handsome men and beautiful women.
Thanks to Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich, Carole Lombard, Jean Harlow, Mae West, new ideals of feminine beauty. It has become fashionable to lighten hair with perhydrol doing permanent wave, use cosmetics, which, however, in contrast to the make-up of the 1920s, was to look natural. In addition to movie entertainment available 30's stayed sport. In many countries, any gymnastic associations and sports associations, which promoted the sport and a healthy lifestyle. Influence of elite sports (tennis, golf, auto - and air sports) that have been popular with customers Houses of fashion , was much in fashion "haute couture".
There was a huge variety of swimwear, including separate swimwear, caused quite a stir in the community.
Sportswear gradually became clothes for rest. The white color of the clothes, typical of summer sports, such as tennis and sailing, has become the most fashionable in the first half of the 30s . Sportswear those years became shorter and comfortable. And in the men's and women's sportswear fashion widespread shorts, which in 1932 first put on the court tennis player Bunny Austin in 1933 at Wimbledon - Alice Marble.
He has not lost its relevance and knitwear - sweaters, jumpers, cardigans, pullovers and even suits and dresses. From sportswear and clothes for the beach and the rest was borrowed by way of wearing old shoes, including those introduced in the 30s shoes with open toe and heel, so-called "sandals", which wore white socks or bare feet. Women in the summer in an informal atmosphere could afford not to wear stockings.
In the 1930s, he expanded the range of evening wear. Fashion designers 30's offered to wear dressy blouses brocade, lace, silk, Evening dresses, long skirts or dresses from thin streaming fabrics, evening dresses with jackets in fashion fur capes and jackets. The ideal external shape in the 30s had a woman with a long slender figure, narrow waist and hips, small breasts, permanent wave on light hair and light makeup with red lipstick. Clothes Silhouettes matched the figure, a variety of compositions based on multiple versions of draperies, the folds on the ratios of shiny and matte textures tissue.
In the evening fashion first half of the 30s predominated style "neoclassicism" - were in high demand draped dresses in the style of Madeleine Vionnet, one of the most important fashion designers of the time. Her draped dresses, skillfully tailored on the bias (some have only one seam or kept on a strap), became one of the symbols of high fashion . On the creation of models draped neoclassical specialized Jean Desse, Ogyustabernar, salon "Alix Barton". " Germaine Krebs, working at that time under the name of Alix Barton, known in the fashion world as the future Madame Grès, directly on the mannequins draped silk fabric or knitted fabric, creating a refined model.
In the evening wear those years was a very popular style of " glamor ", which arose in the 30s, thanks to the Hollywood cinema. In France, this style is called "style Odeon" in honor of the famous variety theater.
Glamour was a movie star style luxury toilets created by Parisian couturier and Hollywood dressers. Before the main color decorative effect of costumes for the movie achieved at the expense of expressive textures: in fashion includes shiny materials - satin,Lame gold and silver, brocade and decoration of fur and feathers, embroidery with sequins, rhinestones, crystal sequins, shoes often snug gold or silver cloth and adorned with decorative buckles. With the advent of color in film in the mid- 30's , the images of film stars screen became more and more luxurious.
Elegant dresses in the 1930s certainly were long, often with high neckline or open back. Length relied not just the evening but also cocktail dresses. A popular cut on the bias serves to emphasize the beauty of the body. In fashion includes dances that could perform in long toilets - foxtrot, swing, tango. Slim-fitting shape dresses, demanded not only an ideal figure, but also the perfect lingerie. In 1931, the American company «Lastex» offered elastic underwear with latex.
In the second half of the 30s , the tendency to use corset underwear - bras created lush breast shape (firm «Kestos»), and elastic belts for stockings slimming the waist and hips.
In everyday clothes the first half of the 30s in a fashion geometric patterns - cell and strip, which are very effectively used in the simulation. Popular flower patterns and polka dots. Small floral patterns - poppies, cornflowers, daisies, chrysanthemums - different naturalistic image. Of the tissues in the 30s for everyday wear most often chosen fabric, muslin, percale, voile, faydeshin, viscose, all kinds of crepes and tweeds. Enjoyed success knitted - wool, silk, cotton.
Very popular clothing 30's was a woman outside suit, which existed in a variety of ways. Outerwear - coats and jackets differed extraordinary elegance and variety of styles. For each type of clothing, including a suit and was characterized by a large variety of shaped lines and finishes. Croy was complicated costumes, I began to rely on the geometry that gives the silhouette of clarity. Widely used in decorative items, jewelry suit.
Direct free silhouettes, characteristic fashion of the 20s, survived in the early 30s, but gradually trend began to change, the soft design of the previous decade gave way to designs with jagged lines, coats made of cloth and fur, as well as other clothes, began to differ more complex brim with lots of decorative elements, under the influence of the approaching war began wearing a coat with leather belts, were double-breasted coat, resembling a military overcoat, coat trapezoidal shape.
In the second half of the 30s in a fashion dominated the style of historicism and neo-romanticism. Waiting for the war and the realization that the old world begins to fall apart again, nostalgic for the past. In vogue suit motives the Franco-Prussian War of 1870 - hats decorated with artificial flowers with veils, artificial flowers decorating the gate, and even costume bustles in evening dresses. The peak of neo-romanticism came in 1937 - 1938 years, when England held celebrations on the occasion of the coronation of George VI and the visit of the royal couple in France, English fashion designer Norman Hartnell specifically for these celebrations designed dresses in the style of models Charles Worth the 1860s - with lush skirts tulle and tightened waists, reminiscent of the Victorian era. Another source of historicism in vogue - Hollywood historical: from the "Lady of the Camellias" with Greta Garbo, up-breaking all box office records, "Gone with the Wind" with Vivien Leigh and Clark Gable.
The collections of the Parisian couturiers, a host of borrowing suit 1860 - 1880 years: the elaborately decorated hats, lavish evening dresses again became popular at the time of forgotten velvet. All this has made changes to the fashionable silhouette. Since 1936, subject to dresses with exaggerated waist, arms extended and expanded, but the shorter the skirt. One of the promoters of the new silhouette in the shape of the letter X became Jacques Heim. Even Madeleine Vionnet in 1937 refused to create models draped in the antique spirit, offering dresses with fluffy skirts of velvet and tulle with applications of Lame.
In the late 30's in vogue revealed two trends: style prior to "New bow" of the postwar era, has offered a model with tightened waists and skirts and lush style of wartime - silhouette in the shape of the letter X, shorter skirts to the knee, broad shoulders, belt, patch pockets.
Since the beginning of the war has won the latest trend, and the other had to wait for a peaceful time to become super popular since 1947. Very fashionable in the prewar period was wedgies and platforms in the shoes, which in 1938 offered the Italian shoemaker Ferragamo and Parisian couturier Jacques Heim.
The legendary Coco Chanel was able to "adjust" their style to the new requirements, it offers white evening dresses from the peak, muslin, organza, as well as casual wear simple dresses and costumes of knitted fabric. Competing with Elsa Schiaparelli led Chanel to create a more extravagant models. In 1937, she was struck by all the dresses from the Gold Lame, who was compared to gold bullion, in 1938 - "Gypsy" dresses with flowers and ruffles French national colors, dresses of lace and guipure.
In 1930 the most fashionable trend in the arts was surrealism. In 1924, the French poet Andre Breton published a "Manifesto of Surrealism", which proclaimed the birth of a new art.
Method of surrealism in modeling clothes first used Elsa Schiaparelli, who maintained friendly relations with many of the Surrealists. Schiaparelli was not only the most original designer of 30's , but also one of the most avant-garde designers of the XX century as a whole. Her motto was "versatility, practicality, convenience", but in fact she wanted to hit new ideas.
In 1929, Elsa Schiaparelli opened a shop «Schiaparelli - pour la sport», that sold sweaters and comfortable clothing for the sport. In the same 1929 Schiaparelli he proposed to carry separate swimsuit skin color, which caused shock among the public on the beach. During this same period, Elsa came up with costume, consisting of six items that can be worn all day, combining with each other in different ways, these items - the prototype of the modern kit.
Originality of ideas helped Schiaparelli ride out hard times "the Great Depression" - the client becomes more and more, and it is expanding business. In 1930, Schiaparelli increased range of models to include their collections daily suits and evening dresses, hats and accessories.
House Elsa Schiaparelli was one of the leading houses of fashion in Paris. It struck his contemporaries avant-garde collections. Schiaparelli was the first to include in the collection of "fancy model", not intended for real life, in the main they were experimentation and novelty ideas. But the foundation of her collection were classic forms - suits, jackets, boleros, tight dresses and capes. Many of its ideas proposed back in the 30s and 40s, were realized in vogue after many decades.
During this period originated alarming fashion 30's , more practical and discreet, unlike fashion carefree "Golden Twenties". Ostentation "era" fleppers "has given way to a new elegance. Women's ideal gradually lost through power lines spurting region, young, cheerful worldview, which were peculiar to the previous period. Women's fashion is focused on more mature feminine image.
The crisis put an end to the lives of many Russian homes embroidery and fashion houses who settled in the West after the Russian Revolution. Were forced to shut down such famous fashion houses as "Paul Poiret," "John Redfern," "Drekoll", instead there are "Maggie Ruff", "Jacques Doucet" in the mid 30's ended their existence "Madame Sheryui", "Sisters Callot. "
Despite the global crisis, we opened a new fashion house: in 1930 "Meynboher" based American Main Rousseau Bocher and became famous for its VIP client - the American Wallis Simpson - (Duchess of Windsor), in 1932, opened a fashion house "Nina Ricci" in 1933 - "Robert Piguet" in 1934, "Alix Barton" in 1935 - "Elsa Schiaparelli", in 1936 was opened fashion House "Catherine Parel", the creator of which was an immigrant from Russia Thea (Catherine) Bobrikov, famous fashion model houses "Lanvin" its institution existed until 1948, and in 1937 opened "Jacques Fath" fashion house "Jean Desse", "Cristobal Balenciaga."
It was at this time was the rise of mass quality readymade garments, complicating its cut. In the US, where the mass fashion shaped Hollywood, appeared firm, traded via mail order catalogs, they spread popular models in millions of copies.
In the early 30's a very common model wore dark dresses with white collars. Another sign of fashion that had started already in the 30-ies - the broad shoulders in women's clothing. Shoulders visually expands scarves, assembly and wings on the sleeves, since 1934 at the expense of wider cut themselves became shoulders, and in 1936 there were shoulder pads.
Such a thing as a single ensemble in the women's costume in the current economic situation has been gradually fade out of life, to dress in this way was too extravagant for fashion crisis era. In 1930 the ensemble was created not by the color of unity of all elements of the costume, and thanks to the accessories: a hat, handbag, gloves and shoes, which were to be the same color. Strictly chosen accessories are usually black or brown, and in the summer - white, can be worn with any dress or suit. The role of accessories in fashion 30's was huge, because for most women of that time a new hat or bag were the only available means to follow the fashion and make a novelty in their way.
Very popular in the 30s all kinds of hats - as tiny, and a wide-brimmed, fur boas from fox or fox, fur collars, neck ribbons, gloves with large bells, bags, envelopes. Since the real jewels in the period of the economic crisis were not enough, someone is available, in a fashion spread inexpensive jewelry.
In the early 30's with the advent of sound and color has become a real Hollywood "dream factory." What he saw on screens of millions of viewers around the world, becoming a role model: Model dresses, hairstyles, beauty ideals.
The beauty of Hollywood stars was invented, carefully constructed. Contribution to the "unearthly images" was added make-up artists, costume designers, lighting operators. But this "creation", the unreality only increased the attractiveness of screen handsome men and beautiful women.
There was a huge variety of swimwear, including separate swimwear, caused quite a stir in the community.
He has not lost its relevance and knitwear - sweaters, jumpers, cardigans, pullovers and even suits and dresses. From sportswear and clothes for the beach and the rest was borrowed by way of wearing old shoes, including those introduced in the 30s shoes with open toe and heel, so-called "sandals", which wore white socks or bare feet. Women in the summer in an informal atmosphere could afford not to wear stockings.
In the 1930s, he expanded the range of evening wear. Fashion designers 30's offered to wear dressy blouses brocade, lace, silk, Evening dresses, long skirts or dresses from thin streaming fabrics, evening dresses with jackets in fashion fur capes and jackets. The ideal external shape in the 30s had a woman with a long slender figure, narrow waist and hips, small breasts, permanent wave on light hair and light makeup with red lipstick. Clothes Silhouettes matched the figure, a variety of compositions based on multiple versions of draperies, the folds on the ratios of shiny and matte textures tissue.
In the evening fashion first half of the 30s predominated style "neoclassicism" - were in high demand draped dresses in the style of Madeleine Vionnet, one of the most important fashion designers of the time. Her draped dresses, skillfully tailored on the bias (some have only one seam or kept on a strap), became one of the symbols of high fashion . On the creation of models draped neoclassical specialized Jean Desse, Ogyustabernar, salon "Alix Barton". " Germaine Krebs, working at that time under the name of Alix Barton, known in the fashion world as the future Madame Grès, directly on the mannequins draped silk fabric or knitted fabric, creating a refined model.
In the evening wear those years was a very popular style of " glamor ", which arose in the 30s, thanks to the Hollywood cinema. In France, this style is called "style Odeon" in honor of the famous variety theater.
Elegant dresses in the 1930s certainly were long, often with high neckline or open back. Length relied not just the evening but also cocktail dresses. A popular cut on the bias serves to emphasize the beauty of the body. In fashion includes dances that could perform in long toilets - foxtrot, swing, tango. Slim-fitting shape dresses, demanded not only an ideal figure, but also the perfect lingerie. In 1931, the American company «Lastex» offered elastic underwear with latex.
In everyday clothes the first half of the 30s in a fashion geometric patterns - cell and strip, which are very effectively used in the simulation. Popular flower patterns and polka dots. Small floral patterns - poppies, cornflowers, daisies, chrysanthemums - different naturalistic image. Of the tissues in the 30s for everyday wear most often chosen fabric, muslin, percale, voile, faydeshin, viscose, all kinds of crepes and tweeds. Enjoyed success knitted - wool, silk, cotton.
Very popular clothing 30's was a woman outside suit, which existed in a variety of ways. Outerwear - coats and jackets differed extraordinary elegance and variety of styles. For each type of clothing, including a suit and was characterized by a large variety of shaped lines and finishes. Croy was complicated costumes, I began to rely on the geometry that gives the silhouette of clarity. Widely used in decorative items, jewelry suit.
Direct free silhouettes, characteristic fashion of the 20s, survived in the early 30s, but gradually trend began to change, the soft design of the previous decade gave way to designs with jagged lines, coats made of cloth and fur, as well as other clothes, began to differ more complex brim with lots of decorative elements, under the influence of the approaching war began wearing a coat with leather belts, were double-breasted coat, resembling a military overcoat, coat trapezoidal shape.
In the second half of the 30s in a fashion dominated the style of historicism and neo-romanticism. Waiting for the war and the realization that the old world begins to fall apart again, nostalgic for the past. In vogue suit motives the Franco-Prussian War of 1870 - hats decorated with artificial flowers with veils, artificial flowers decorating the gate, and even costume bustles in evening dresses. The peak of neo-romanticism came in 1937 - 1938 years, when England held celebrations on the occasion of the coronation of George VI and the visit of the royal couple in France, English fashion designer Norman Hartnell specifically for these celebrations designed dresses in the style of models Charles Worth the 1860s - with lush skirts tulle and tightened waists, reminiscent of the Victorian era. Another source of historicism in vogue - Hollywood historical: from the "Lady of the Camellias" with Greta Garbo, up-breaking all box office records, "Gone with the Wind" with Vivien Leigh and Clark Gable.
The collections of the Parisian couturiers, a host of borrowing suit 1860 - 1880 years: the elaborately decorated hats, lavish evening dresses again became popular at the time of forgotten velvet. All this has made changes to the fashionable silhouette. Since 1936, subject to dresses with exaggerated waist, arms extended and expanded, but the shorter the skirt. One of the promoters of the new silhouette in the shape of the letter X became Jacques Heim. Even Madeleine Vionnet in 1937 refused to create models draped in the antique spirit, offering dresses with fluffy skirts of velvet and tulle with applications of Lame.
In the late 30's in vogue revealed two trends: style prior to "New bow" of the postwar era, has offered a model with tightened waists and skirts and lush style of wartime - silhouette in the shape of the letter X, shorter skirts to the knee, broad shoulders, belt, patch pockets.
The legendary Coco Chanel was able to "adjust" their style to the new requirements, it offers white evening dresses from the peak, muslin, organza, as well as casual wear simple dresses and costumes of knitted fabric. Competing with Elsa Schiaparelli led Chanel to create a more extravagant models. In 1937, she was struck by all the dresses from the Gold Lame, who was compared to gold bullion, in 1938 - "Gypsy" dresses with flowers and ruffles French national colors, dresses of lace and guipure.
In 1930 the most fashionable trend in the arts was surrealism. In 1924, the French poet Andre Breton published a "Manifesto of Surrealism", which proclaimed the birth of a new art.
Method of surrealism in modeling clothes first used Elsa Schiaparelli, who maintained friendly relations with many of the Surrealists. Schiaparelli was not only the most original designer of 30's , but also one of the most avant-garde designers of the XX century as a whole. Her motto was "versatility, practicality, convenience", but in fact she wanted to hit new ideas.
Originality of ideas helped Schiaparelli ride out hard times "the Great Depression" - the client becomes more and more, and it is expanding business. In 1930, Schiaparelli increased range of models to include their collections daily suits and evening dresses, hats and accessories.
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